Caravan

Caravan has slotted into the Exmouth Market dining scene with consummate ease. On a midweek summer's evening, tables inside and out were packed and the small bar area was jammed.

The casual vibe and industrial-funky design - rough wooden tables, white pipework, an enamel jug filled with yellow daisies, light fittings made from old-fashioned cow-milking bottles - are part of the appeal, but the food is the main draw.

There are large dishes, but most people choose the small plates, and share. Expect a parade of unusual, international tastes (chef is New Zealander Miles Kirby, late of The Providores).

Peanut butter and blue cheese wontons exploded on the tongue; squid 'pancake', drizzled with mayo and Japanese brown sauce, was soft and yielding; salt beef fritters with green beans packed a meaty punch.

Puds are just as inventive: take the custardy orange water blancmange with intense raspberry sorbet and crunchy pistachios. There's also weekend brunch (banana caramel porridge, fry-ups, cornbread French toast with bacon), and a fairly priced drinks list that includes excellent coffee (roasted daily on the premises), cocktails, juices and wine.

Young staff zip busily between tables, but are never too rushed to smile.